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Making your 1911 Pistol More Reliable
by Gene Shuey Master Pistolsmith & AGI Instructor
John Browning designed the 1911 pistol to be used for military service chambered for
the .45acp cartridge. This original design was highly reliable under the most severe
circumstances, partially because the tolerances were designed to be loose with a great
degree of Military Specification parts interchangeability. These looser tolerances resulted
in a less accurate, but more than acceptable and a very reliable Military combat pistol.
There are several factors that have caused the 1911 to be less reliable today. As the pistol
entered the civilian market, several changes were made in the design, additional calibers
were offered and a variety of ammunition choices all of which influenced the reliability of
this pistol. Demands for a higher degree of accuracy, along with the availability of after
market parts allowed gunsmiths to modify the original design and specifications, which
often induced reliability problems. The increase in the popularity of pistol shooting sports,
such as IPSC (International Practical Shooting Confederation) stimulated a whole new era
of modification and customizing of the 1911 pistol.
Some pistols have inherent problems due to the degree of quality control used by the
multitude of manufacturers and the many subcontractors that they use, (domestic &
imported). The result is, greatly varying degrees of quality and dimensional accuracy many
guns that have problems right out of the box. But overall the largest contributor to the 1911
reliability factor is the lack of knowledge (of design and function) by persons re-designing,
manufacturing, repairing, modifying, or even customizing the 1911 pistol.
This is one of the main reasons that in the AGI Professional Gunsmithing Course on video,
we spend over 5 ? hours focused on teaching the Complete Design and Function of the
"Single Action, Tipping barrel, Locked Breach, Automatic Pistol " known to most everyone
as the "1911 .45 Auto." After watching that section you will know this gun inside and out
like never before. You can get a complete course preview and learn about how to solve
mysterious feeding problems on the 1911 and other auto pistols by ordering the FREE
Introductory Video Lesson at www.AmericanGunsmithingInstitute.org
7 Areas to check for reliability problems:
Note: If it is a used pistol, first look for worn, broken, or loose parts. Also look for replaced
or altered parts. Try and determine, are they correct and functional?
1. Ammo: The bullet shape and cartridge length will affect the feeding reliability. Also the
caliber will have an influence on the tuning of the parts, i.e., .38 Super Vs .45acp. Reloads
can be induce problems and be quite difficult to identify.
2. Extractor: The tension is critical on the case and the shape of the extractor "claw" is
important particularly on smaller caliber cases. The rule is that the extractor must hold the
case up on the breach face. This is demonstrated in our Armorer's Course.
3. Recoil Spring: It's important to have the proper spring rate for the bullet weight and
velocity of the ammo to be used. The wrong spring will cause short cycling or feeding
problems.
4. Barrel fit: Too large of a gap between the barrel feed ramp and the frame can cause a
round to "stub" on the ramp when feeding. If the feed ramp on the barrel going into the
chamber has a sharp edge, it could cause a "three point" bind. (This is explained in the
AGI professional gunsmithing course and in the 1911 Armorers Course.
www.AmericanGunsmithingInstitute.org)
5. Magazines: Can be a major source of problems & are caliber sensitive. Check the
magazine body inside for contamination or grit. The feed lips need to be checked for
proper width, along with the condition of the spring (proper spring tension). Also look for
dents on the magazine body. High capacity magazines, in particular, need additional
checks.
6. Ejector: Generally this is not a major factor in reliability except on a pistol that has a
scope mounted over the top of the slide. Then the MAJOR consideration is ejector length
and shape. The ejector can also become an issue when building in calibers other than .45
auto. With a long skinny case such as .38 Super they can be sensitive if not set-up
correctly.
7. Areas to Inspect: Check the condition of the breach face, firing pin hole, cleanliness of
the interior parts and components. If any "after market" parts are used, inspect for binding,
fit, & that the parts are correct for that caliber/model, etc.. The insertion of the wrong
caliber part does occur! Sometimes even from the manufacturer.
Comments:
There are additional circumstances that influence the reliability of certain 1911's. IPSC
"Open Class" pistols require specialized knowledge and are very sensitive to ammo,
magazines, and improper fitting of all parts. Many 'over the counter' 1911's may require
some type of reliability tuning.
Tuning is needed since most 1911 manufacturers do not make all of their own parts, parts
are purchased from different vendors, and from time to time quality will vary greatly. Some
manufacturers have specifications that differ from Browning's original design, thus
potentially causing reliability and repair issues. Be cautious in selecting and using after
market parts, they can be a plus or a nightmare because not all parts and accessories are
created equal. Most in cases can be made to function but knowledge and tools are
needed to achieve this. There is a wealth of information available and should be acquired
before any attempt to modify or perform work on any firearm.
If you want to know more about the 1911, .45 Auto type pistol, consider getting and
watching the AGI Armorers Course on this firearm. The course will show and teach you;
Complete disassembly and reassembly step-by-step, how the pistol is designed using a
cutaway pistol and how to solve and make many of the most common repairs. The course
is #1014. To order simply call 1-800-797-0867 or go to www.AmericanGunsmith.com
Be watching for your next Gunsmithing Mini-Lesson in the next couple of days.
Best regards,
Gene Kelly, President AGI
WHY & How to Make "Snap Caps"
We received this question from an AGI Student:
"I just came into possession of a Ruger #3 in 22 hornet. And I was wondering if it would
damage the rifle if I practiced firing with no round in it?" Thanks. Dan
Dan: It's never really a good idea to repetitively drop the hammer on an empty chamber,
because if there isn't a primer to soften or Stop the forward motion of the firing pin, you risk
breaking it, or causing a burr to form. Because the firing pin will hit the barrel at the edge of
the chamber and "peen" some metal into the chamber causing jams and misfires. (With
some guns like the 1911 dry firing is less of a problem due to the floating firing pin design).
I would suggest that you purchase "snap caps" (see the article below) which have
spring-loaded "dummy primers" that absorb the impact.
You can get them from Brownells, Midway and other places. Or use empty cases with fired
primers, but be careful not to get a loaded round mixed in. You could also make a set of snap
caps. You also never want to dry fire rimfires.
How to make Snap Caps for any caliber
Here is an excellent way to make your own, cheap snap caps. This is especially useful for
those cartridges that are now out of manufacture or hard to find. All you need are some basic
tools that would be in most homes and a reloading press.
1. "Load" a bullet into an unprimed case as you normally would on any reloading
press, minus any powder. (Don't prime the cartridge, but leave this hole empty and free for
the rubber that will replace the primer which is what the firing pin will strike).
2. Cut a bit of rubber, from the end of a pencil if you like, or use nylon or any other
soft rubber/plastic andturn the diameter down to just a bit bigger by a few thousandths then
that of the primer pocket. This can be achieved with any blade, but I found thin ones best,
such as a scalpel or razor. The diameter can be guessed or measured with a dial caliper.
Leave about a 1/16" to 1/8" of rubber extending, above the bottom of the case, when the
rubber has been pressed into the primer hole.
3. Glue the rubber into place with super glue or epoxy. Then trim flush with the case.
Trimming can be achieved again, by using a thin, sharp blade to achieve a level, flat surface.
OR sanding lightly across using a flat surface as backing to the sandpaper.
4. You can leave the rubber natural or colour it with a permanent marker to
distinguish it from live cartridges. Any color can be chosen for your own preference.
5. Drill a couple of holes into the sides of the case to ensure it is easily
distinguishable from a live cartridge. This can be achieved using either a mini drill or electric
drill. The former is my preference, as it gives more speed control and can be more precise. If
clamping the case to drill, you really should be careful not to deform the case, as this will end
in tears when you try to load the snap cap into the breach of you rifle or pistol.
Before drilling mark where you want the hole(s) and tap very gently with a fine punch. You
are now ready to drill the hole, as the punch mark will stop the drill from sliding on the
rounded surface of the case. Using a starting punch can also deform the case, so be careful.
Do ensure that there is no burr left on any of the holes that are drilled. A needle file and
emery cloth will make short work of anything sharp left on the brass. Or you can use a center
drill to deburr the hole.
6. And finally, rub the final product with a little fine emery cloth or wire wool, to clean
all surfaces. Make sure that all signs of 'super glue' are gone or dry. The last thing you want
is unnoticed 'super glue' fixing the snap cap permanently into your favourite firearm.
If you want to, further colour can be added to the base of the case to flag it as a snap cap.
And there you have it, a new snap cap. This process will work with any caliber centerfire, so
have a go!
This is an easy and effective way of making a cheap, long lasting snap cap. If the rubber
ever wears out, just replace it.
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The Ruger 10/22 is everybody's favorite .22 and as a result there are a lot of things
that you can do to accessorize and trick them out. This is part 1 of a three part
series on this reliable and fun little rifle.
RUGER 10/22 Tips & Tricks
(Part 1) By Jack Landis, AGI Technical Services
Well, here's a gun that is owned by a million people. And the good thing about these people
(from a gunsmith's point of view) is that there are a TON of really cool parts and accessories
available for these guns, at fairly inexpensive prices.
My biggest sales tool for selling upgrades on these guns is MY gun. People at the range, in
the field at gun shows, etc., see my gun, see the Fajen Aristocrat stock and the highly
polished, fluted (did it myself on the mill, and boy, howdy, am I proud of IT) blue bull barrel.
They try the action and, with my permission, try the trigger. Almost every one wants one just
like it! If that don't make money for you, then Son you just ain't hardly tryin'!
Volquartsen, Clark, and Power custom make all of the parts for these guns that you could
ever need or want. They are of excellent quality and are, of course, available from Brownells,
Midway and others.
Extended magazine releases make mag changes MUCH easier to make an inexpensive one
you can look at it in Brownells. Take a piece of brass, aluminum, or steel rod around 3/16" or
so and thread the outside of one end about 3/16" or so in 10-24 or 10-32, thread whatever
makes you happy. Cut it off about 1" long overall and round off the unthreaded end. Drill and
tap the center of the finger press area on the original release from top to bottom. Loc-Tite or
super glue the threads and screw in your new extension. It can be cold blued, painted, etc.,
as you wish. If you're REALLY lazy (or cheap), you don't have to thread the rod or release,
just drill the original part the same size as your rod and epoxy the rod in.
Other parts you might want are recoil buffers for the 10/22. They are cheap and are a really
good idea to reduce wear, as are cleaning rod guides for the muzzle.
You can also easily make your 10/22 bolt release "automatic" (when the bolt is locked back,
just pull it back slightly and the bolt release will release "automatically"). Just grind away the
sharp point protruding down from the top of the large oblong hole in the top of the bolt
release. Leave the top of this hole flat or SLIGHTLY dished. Look at the pictures of the 10/22
releases in Brownells or Midway if you need a better mental picture.
Save 50 bucks on an adjustable trigger by drilling and tapping an 8-32 hole in the center of
the trigger face so that an 8-32 set screw threaded in will point directly to the rear of the gun.
Use a length that will have its head flush or just below the trigger face. Screw in or out or file
the rear of the screw so that the hammer falls about .005" before the screw touches the
trigger bow. If you really want to be the cat's backside, put a small dab of silicon sealant or
black gasket seal on the rear of the screw. You won't feel or hear the "click" as it touches the
trigger bow!
Order a catalog from Brownells at brownells.com if you don't already have one, and the
Gunsmithing catalog from Midway. They have enough parts and neat stuff to provide
bathroom reading material for the next year.
We do have an Armorer's Course video available for the Ruger 10/22, its #1094 DVD (plus
the DVD version comes with a printable schematic). The video course will help you to
understand how to detail strip and maintain these firearms. Master Gunsmith Bob Dunlap
uses a cutaway rifle to show you all the internal workings of this neat rifle, so you will
understand exactly how they work and can repair them. Separately we also have a course on
how to do a 10/22 trigger jobs, step-by-step. It's course #3324 DVD. Get them and truly
understand what you're doing. If you do your own trigger jobs using the existing parts, You'll
also save about $120 more or less in parts (hammers, sears, etc.) on each trigger job you
do! You can find the courses on our website www.americangunsmith.com or give us a call at
800/797-0867. Keep in mind that AGI has a "Bulletproof" money back guarantee. We want
you to be happy.
Best regards,
Gene Kelly, President AGI